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Part 15 - Tape everywhere

Too Tight!

Insulation's what you neeeeed

So the boards are bolted, now I have to stop the stack of plastics coming adrift, and solving the problem of the lamp holder being too big , which forces the pcb at the top of the screen up and stops everything fitting nicely.

If I can also get more light into the slab then so much the better.

First the three sheets at the top have tabs at the edges so I tape those.

Next the white sheet underneath the acrylic slab. I've got a bigger one from a 17" monitor I can use so I can fold up sides and use that as a light reflector instead of the plastic moulding currently round the tubes. I also trim the edges and fold them up the sides of the slab to minimise light loss at the edges. This is all held together with good old insulating tape. There you go, John Noakes would be proud.

stick
origami origami2 Fiat Lux

The next big thing is cutting down the screen protector to fit in the hole I've cut in the case. Dremel again, It's better than a jigsaw for acrylic.  Again I cut outside the final line, then grind/file it down the rest of the way. This has got to be neat cos its the most visible part of the build.  Still not entirely sure how I'm going to mount it.  I'll have to try out some glues on the offcuts I think.
Damn.  A couple of slips with a grinding head have left small scars, Oh well I'll see if I can mask them a bit.  They are right on the edge so it's not like they'd affect functionality and they are only a few pixels.

Ooh Shiny
Light Alignment Light Fixing

Now that the backlight is all taped up I can position it.  Put the top on and stick a couple of the screws (loosely) in opposite corners to make sure the lid is in the right place,  then shuffle the backlight into position through the hole. When it's lined up I remove the top and tape the backlight down.   I'm planning something more secure as a retro-fit later, but it will do for now. 

Screen Alignment Screen Fixing

To get the screen lined up I turn everything on and set my laptop desktop to white.  The lid is upside-down over the backlight so I can see what's going on. This displays the visible screen area nicely so I can line it up on the hole and tape it down.
Once it's all together the slight pressure from the backlight , the tabs I left on the top, plus the tape, will stop it sliding around. 
It's all going to be quite snug in there. 

 The case on the 1212 tablet is 16" x 16", the sensor is pretty much that size as well but the active sensing area is 12" x 12".  There is an area of circuit outside of this which is partly where the chips live and partly (I think) an antenna for communicating with and sensing the pen. A 15" non-widescreen monitor LCD is 12"x9" and the visible area is very slightly less than that.  The hole I cut is -just- larger than the visible screen and -just- smaller than the LCD panel.  Those lovely people at Wacom have given us near perfect lines to cut the sides to, moulded into the casing.   The next question is where you should mount the screen vertically. I reckon go as close to the bottom of the case as you can while fitting everything in, and here's why:

The Wacom drivers allow you to section up the pad, and apply the different sections to different areas of windows desktop.   Now of course the biggest chunk of pad will map 1:1 to the LCD, BUT if you have a 3" strip of pad unused at the top you can map that onto your other screen. So you can keep photoshop menus on your main screen, leaving your pad free for just the main toolbar and the drawing.

HINDSIGHT WARNING
Acrylic is pretty soft. If you use it with the standard hard plastic Wacom nibs it will start to scuff pretty quickly.   You can try using the Wacom replacement soft nibs, (not tried this yet but I've some on the way), or you can use a more scuff-resistant plastic.   If you know of one please come over to the forums and tell us :) .   OR, you could use glass I guess, if you get a precise size.   I'm slightly wary of that route myself, but I've heard of someone using it to replace the plastic on a Wacom, so it might be worth a try.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
Part 7
Part 8
Part 9
Part 10
Part 11
Part 12
Part 13
Part 14
Part 15
Part 16
Part 17
Part 18
Revisions
All this nonsense Copyright © 2005-2006 Drew Northcott
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